Men’s Style & Grooming by Yatan Ahluwalia: dressing for leisure

Decoding the lead look

Hair: Short on the sides, long and puffy rolled up on the top.

Eyebrows : Natural

Confront: Smooth skin and neat stubble.

Lips: Thick and polished.

Others: Camel color summer leisure jacket and printed beige shirt.

Clothes don’t make a man, but a good leisure suit surely does!

Smart, laid back and laid back

Or: Weekend brunches, the club, daywear, leisure travel and early evening events.

Styling: Pale colors, soft fabrics, full suits or jackets with jeans or casual trousers.

Affecting : Latin & Italian.

Make the right choice

1. The cut: Remember, the more structured your figure, the smarter you will look. Your costume should move easily and not wrinkle, especially around the shoulders, sleeves and between the legs.

2. Custom or ready to use: Although bespoke is still a preferred option, many brands and designers make well-made, off-the-shelf suits that they’ll happily alter to your size if you ask them to. Before you finish paying for your costume, you must do a final trial run for fit and fall.

3. Value for money: It makes sense to get value for what you buy. I suggest you spend on a well-designed and well-made suit for its look and feel and not for the designer’s label or brand.

Tailor-made: Our opinion

This stylish striped jacket from RARE RABBIT is ideal for creating a slim, layered look.

The brief: I went for a bespoke experience with Raymond Made to Measure for a summer suit for a ‘Cuban – Havana’ party I’m attending at the end of the month. For a Latin theme, mine had to be a pale blue jacket, white pants and a multi-colored contrast floral shirt!

USP: The costume was conceptualized and delivered without leaving home.

The process: An efficient duo from the brand came to take the measurements and had me try on a variety of swatches to see which would be the right fit, fall, and shape for my body. I chose the fabric of the suit and the shirt that goes with it. About two weeks later, the first handcrafted sample was delivered. I just wanted the length of the jacket to be shorter, the armholes a bit tighter, and the pants a bit more tapered.

The result: A day later, the modified costume was sent. The fit was perfect, and it looked and felt much better than expected. I moved with ease, and that’s the true test of a well-made costume. The ‘tailor-made’ experience is well worth the time and money, especially if your purchase is not an urgent necessity or on a shoestring budget.

Tissues

For the summer, thick and coarse fabrics are to be avoided. Instead, choose ones that are light and airy, so you can stay well-ventilated. The fabric should give you a good fit, not wrinkle or look limp.

Our advice: Always keep “off season” wetsuits ready to go so they are ready for that unexpected trip.

The color palette

The majority of summer work suits are available in light shades of gray, beige and blue. Casual ones are usually in pastel shades, lighter shades or even white. Always choose which color to wear based on the time of day, where you are going to be, the occasion and the expected dress code.

The golden rule: Your costume should make you stand out, not blend in with the crowd.

MORNING AFTERNOON: Wear lighter shades for the day and darker for the evening.

Color Tip: Choose according to your skin tone – warm colors work with dark tones and cool colors with pale tones. Pastels work for everyone.

The shape and size

If you are tall or thin: Stay away from vertical stripes, including pinstripes, as they tend to accentuate height. If you prefer to stick to prints, horizontal stripes and subtle checks are more flattering.

If you are short or strong: Avoid long jackets, cuffed pants and loud patterns. Pinstripes and darker day shades are your best bet as they will make you look both taller and slimmer.

If you are tall and bulky: Adopt dark colors; straight cuts and two or three button styles. Avoid all kinds of prints and textured fabrics – the plainer your suit, the better.

Our advice: A good suit should look timeless. A classic fit in a structured fit, with plenty of room to wiggle, is a must-have.

The details

Reverse: The accent of a suit is always the lapel of the jacket. Wear suits with peak lapels because they bring the eye up. Longer lapels make you look wider since they form a v-neck, which accentuates the vertical lines of your body.

Inner lining: Your jacket lining should be soft, comfortable and in a contrasting color, texture or design.

Pocket squares

Your pocket square should give either a subtle accent or a bold statement to your jacket or suit.

CASA POP’s range of limited edition pouches are my go-to for adding some life to your costume

We recommend: Dress up your jacket or suit with a contrasting or brightly colored pocket square. It is an important finishing touch for your look.

This stylish pinstripe jacket from RARE RABBIT is ideal for creating a slim, layered look.

Jacket length

A cropped jacket (ending at the hip) gives you a sharper, smarter look and balances the proportion between your upper and lower body.

We recommend: This jacket can be worn with jeans, knee length shorts and even your favorite chinos. The Mao collar closes with a metal button and the print will give you the illusion of length.

Long sleeve tops

They are more versatile and you can mix and match them with different jackets to create an assortment of looks as needed. The collar can be round or V-shaped and should look well maintained.

Shirts

Always long-sleeved with a jacket. You can wear a contrasting or coordinating tonal shirt. Only half an inch of the cuff should be visible under your jacket.

This breathable cotton white shirt from HARBOR 9 has blue piping on the neckline and a twill stripe inside the placket to give you a dressier look
RAYMOND MADE TO MEASURE’s aqua print shirt looks great on its own but even better under a crisp leisure jacket

We recommend: These anytime shirts will give you a nautical look as soon as you put them on. Only roll up the sleeves when wearing them without a jacket. Always carefully tuck your shirt into your stockings. Leave the top two buttons undone for a more relaxed feel.

Belts

Wear thin belts with simple buckles: the less attention your belt will take away from your suit, the better.

Trousers

Pants should fit snugly and flatter your lower body shape. You can choose between a straight fit, a comfort fit or a fitted pair. They should always end at the ankle and not above your shoes. They could match or contrast the jacket.

jeans

You can’t go wrong with a pair of untreated navy blue denim jeans with stylish leisure jackets. Lighter jackets may require a lighter shade of blue for your jeans.

Socks

Your socks should always be in the same color family as your costume. Original, printed socks in contrasting colors work just as well.

Shoes

Round toe shoes look much better with leisure suits than long pointed styles.

EZOK’s smart lace-up leather shoes are ideal for indoor and outdoor use and will be especially useful for travel or when wearing jeans with a suit jacket.
The ESCARO ROYALE two-tone black and white lace-up Golf design oxfords are perfect for dressing up your summer suit for a cocktail party or an evening out.

We recommend: For casual suits, you can match or contrast your shoes. Sandals with costumes? Maybe in photos and on the ramp, but never in the real world!

5 rules for looking good in your leisure suit

1. Never keep your hands in your trouser pocket, as this makes them shapeless, worn out and shabby.

2. Avoid carrying overloaded wallets, heavy cell phones and other accessories in your pockets as they can spoil the shape and alter the fit of your wetsuit.

3. Always undo the buttons on your jacket when you are seated – this will keep it wrinkle free and in better shape.

4. Ties are absent or optional for all casual looks.

5. Keep your wetsuit well maintained. There’s nothing worse than wearing a suit that looks old or out of shape.

Leisure etiquette – wine glasses

The finely crafted LUIGI BORMIOLI, Michelangelo series wine glasses (available on THINKITCHEN) have an elegant Italian design with a smooth yet durable finish.

If you like your red or white and want to get it right: tilt the bottle opening down over the wine glass and slowly pour down the center or sides. Hold the rod between your thumb and first two fingers. Your middle finger should rest on the shaft just above the base. Only three fingers should be in contact with the stem of the glass. Remember that when you hold your wine by the bowl of the glass rather than the stem, you are warming your wine.

My advice : If you are the host, in addition to choosing the right wine that goes well with the food you are serving, you should invest in a good set of glasses.

These glasses will impress everyone – they look good, are light, have a fine sound and are resistant at the same time. The author is a consultant and trainer in image, style, grooming and etiquette.

From HT Brunch, May 21, 2022

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